DAYS come when you get the urge to flee the city smog, noise and stress, and to luxuriate in clean, fresh air. But apart from the usual getaways in Tagaytay or Batangas, where do you go if you have just a day to yourself?
Try the quiet fishing town of Tanay in Rizal.
On a leisurely Sunday, Tanay is just an hour's drive from the Ortigas business district. Early on, as you negotiate the steep and winding roads and catch a glimpse of trees and Laguna de Bay, you will already feel like you left the city far behind. My family and I certainly did when we drove to Tanay to visit our uncle, Father Mario S. Operario, parish priest of San Ildefonso whose church is easily one of the town's prime tourist attractions.
Church records show that, from the stone implements discovered in the area, Tanay was originally inhabited by the Aeta or Dumagat (from the phrase "dumaong galing sa dagat" or "docked from the sea").
When the Spaniards came and established the city of Manila in 1571, they turned their attention in 1572 to the "Rinconadas de Moron" or the lakeside dwellers and began to convert them to Christianity.
The Franciscan fathers were the first to arrive. They did missionary work around what is now the southeastern Rizal province, including Tanay and except for the towns of Baras, Antipolo and Cainta, which were under the Jesuit fathers.
Monte de Tan-ay, as the town was once called, was a part of the town of Pililla until it became an independent parish and town in 1606. Thus, Tanay is in the thick of preparations for the 400th anniversary of both the town and the San Ildefonso Church in 2006.
Tanay took San Ildefonso de Toledo as its patron saint, with Father Pedro de Talavera as the first parish priest. January 23 was designated as its feast day.
Our uncle, Father Mario, is the latest in the long line of parish priests that saw the church and their flock through many trials. He is proud to say that San Ildefonso Church has remained largely intact and is one of the colonial churches declared as a National Cultural Treasure by the National Museum.
The San Ildefonso Church shares the honor with the Immaculate Conception Church in Balayan, Batangas; the San Pedro Apostol Church in Loboc, Bohol; the San Gregorio Magno Church in Majayjay, Laguna; and the Immaculate Conception Church in Guiuan, Eastern Samar.
The present church was constructed between 1773 and 1783, after the first stone church completed in 1680 was badly damaged.
Many sought refuge in the church at the time when a revolutionary government was formed in 1898 under the province of Antipolo and a revolutionary army was set up under General Lecerio Geronimo.
In 1900 American forces occupied the town. A civil government was established with Tanay forming part of the newly created province of Rizal on June 11,1901.
Tourists and pilgrims visit the church because of its religious and artistic significance.
Father Mario showed us an old article written by Nick Joaquin, which celebrates the beauty of the church's stations of the cross.
Joaquin described the Via Crucis of Tanay as "splendid ornaments," and cited the unique artistry displayed by the artist who painstakingly carved the reliefs.
Father Mario said the artist remained unknown to this day, more than 200 years since his work was installed in the present church.
Joaquin theorized that the "maestro of Tanay" carved only the first 12 stations. He said the 13th and 14th stations were added later and were of "inferior" quality.
He also said the first 12 stations must have been executed by "some primitive Filipino artist, a craftsman without any artistic training."
Aside from the stations, Father Mario said the church also made it to the list of heritage churches because of the retablos (or repositories of saints) that greet parishioners once they come through the massive doors.
The major retablo features the patron saint San Ildefonso de Toledo, who, according to Father Mario, was known to be a good bishop of Toledo in Spain who was devoted to Mother Mary.
The retablo on the right honors St. Joseph, while the one on the left is in honor of Our Lady of Guadalupe, considered Tanay's second patron saint.
Church records say that the image was considered miraculous because of the extraordinary events that occurred in the town when the Chinese took up arms around 1639.
The records say that the image of Our Lady itself was speared by the Chinese rebels, and that two rebels later died by their own spears, while a third hanged himself.
This reputed miracle took place on January 24, 1640. Since then, the day has been marked as a day of devotion to the Blessed Virgin Mary (the image was later changed from the Immaculate Conception to Our Lady of Guadalupe).
There is, however, much more to Tanay than its church.
Visitors take pleasure in its mountains, rivers and other natural attractions, said Vice Mayor Rommel Magwili.
Two of the more famous destinations are the Daranak Falls, frequented by visitors particularly in summer, and the Daraitan river. For spelunkers, there are the Kalinawan Caves, which, Magwili said, were likely used as hiding places during World War II.
But for those who are not into nature trips, the fresh seafood should be enough of a come-on.
With many of the townsfolk earning their living from the riches of the sea, it is quite easy to find a restaurant that has fresh fish on the menu, many plucked straight out of Laguna de Bay.
We realized to our regret that after getting our fill, it was time to head home.
We carried with us not only the remnants of our excellent meal but also the thought that there is still Tanay to escape to. It only takes an hour's drive and a spirit for adventure.
http://www.inq7.net/globalnation/sec_phe/2003/oct/08-03.htm
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